The
island of Java is Indonesia's heartland, the nation's cultural capital,
its political and economical centre, although it covers only 7 percent
of the total land mass. Java is an island of contrasts: landscape
of small villages and modern cities, western architecture and traditional
Indonesian culture, nightly activities divided between delightful
wayang kulit puppet performances and all-night dancing at discos
in Jakarta, courtly dance and gamelan is performed with a subtle
fervour while others pour their energy into working the rice fields.
This is the most fertile, the most productive, and probably the
most densely populated island in the world. With over 115 million
people living in the area of 132,187 km2, the average population
density is 850 persons per square kilometre. And although there
are cities with over million inhabitants, the island is still predominately
rural.
Volcanoes are the very core of Java. They have shaped the landscape
and provided the source for Java's rich soils. The volcanoes form
an uneven stripe running the whole length of the island - one of
the most active segments in the Pacific "Ring of Fire".
The volcanoes are more strongly crammed in the west, where they
make a complex of highland plateaus and valleys. To the east, they
are more broadly spaced, creating a series of steadily sloping valleys
that are perfectly suitable to rice field terracing. Java and Bali
together have 37 volcanoes officially listed, of which 23 have been
active since 1600. The highest peak is Mount Semeru at 3,676 metres.
The most famed volcano is Krakatau in the Sunda Straits, who disastrously
erupted in 1883.
JAKARTA
For most visitors, the first introduction to Java is Jakarta, the
sprawling capital city and heart of Indonesia. This enormous city
has humble roots, starting as a small harbour town called Sunda
Kelapa, but its actual founding dates back to the June 22, 1527
when it was named Jayakarta by Fatahillah of the neighbouring Sultanate
of Banten. The name Jayakarta means City of Great Victory but under
Dutch control the name was changed to Batavia. Shortly after the
outbreak of World War II, Batavia fell into the hands of invading
Japanese forces that also changed the name of the city. This time
it was called Jakarta as a gesture aimed at winning the sympathy
of the Indonesians. The name was retained even when Indonesia achieved
national independence after the wars end. Now, as Jakarta, it is
the centre of government, business and industry and spreads over
an area of more than 650 km2 with a population of over ten million
people. It is also designated as a special territory, which means
that it is administered by a governor and enjoys the same status
as a province. Indonesia's cultural diversity is celebrated in the
national motto, Bhineka Tunggal Ika, meaning "Unity in Diversity."
One manifestation of this tenet of Indonesian national identity
is the government's efforts to give equal precedence to the development
of traditional art forms from each ethnic group. In Jakarta, the
Orang Betawi - the natives of the city - are considered to be the
hosts of these cultures, having emerged from the melting pot of
races, ethnic groups and cultures of Indonesia in the 19th century.
Today they constitute one of the city's main ethnic groups along
side the Javanese (from Central and Eastern Java), Sundanese (from
West Java) and Chinese. Betawi culture is a treasure trove of colour,
tradition, song, dance, clothing, cuisine, language and dialect.
The culture thrives today due to government policy to enhance the
cultural identity of the original inhabitants of the city, and prevent
their traditions being buried beneath a tide of modernization. There
are annual parades and other celebrations in which three-meter tall
Betawi mascots (ondel ondel) - are seen delighting the crowds with
their large masks and tinsel-sprinkled headdresses.
WEST JAVA
The charming and stunning land of Sunda stretches from the Sunda
Strait in the west to the borders of Central Java in the east. West
Java is not only Indonesia's most populous province, but also its
most productive - yielding more agricultural products and manufactured
goods than any other part of the country. The region is primarily
mountainous, with rich green valleys hugging lofty volcanic peaks,
many of which surround the capital of the province, Bandung. The
people of this region, the Sundanese, are soft-spoken and colourful,
with a rich and fascinating history. The powerful and ancient kingdoms
of Tarumanegara, Pajajaran, Banten and Cirebon have all risen, ruled
and fallen in this province and provide fascinating studies for
students of archaeology and history. West Java was one of the first
contact points in Indonesia for Indian traders and their cultural
influences, and it was here that the Dutch and British first set
foot in Indonesia at Banten. The Dutch moved their centre of operations
to Sunda Kelapa (now Jakarta) after fierce competition and rivalry
with the British, only to return at a later date. West Java effectively
surrounds the nation's capital of Jakarta on three sides and enjoyable
roads provide good links to most of the province passing through
spectacular panoramas of rocky mountains and fresh rice fields.
West Java provides visitors with a great number of fascinating and
wonderful things to see and do; venture to the reminders of the
explosive and awesome power of Krakatau; explore the undisturbed
wildlife reserve of Ujung Kulon on the south- western tip of Java;
admire the Pulau Dua Bird Sanctuary off the coast of Banten and
visit the isolated communities of the mysterious Baduy in the remote
Halimun Mountain Reserve; discover unspoiled beaches at Pangandaran;
treasure the royal palaces of Cirebon and the world renowned botanical
gardens of Bogor. Bandung, the capital of the province is about
180 kms southeast of Jakarta and was once known as "The Paris
of Java" because of its tree lined boulevards and artistic
influences. The city gained international fame in 1955 as the venue
for the first Afro-Asian Conference which brought together the leaders
of 29 Asian and African Nations with the aim of promoting economic
and cultural relations and taking a common stand against colonialism.
CENTRAL JAVA
The green crescent of fertile rice fields that blankets Gunung Merapi's
southern flanks - with historic Yogyakarta as its focal point -
is today inhabited by about 10 million Javanese, with 3 million
urban residents. Rural population densities here are high, with
over 1000 people per square kilometre. History has left its footprints
everywhere in Central Java, an area wealthy in a culture and tradition
cumulated from a influential Hindu and Buddhist past and more recent
Islamic influences. Under the Saliendra and Old Mataram kings, the
Hindu Javanese culture flourished between the 8th and 1 0th centuries
and it was during this summit of power that Java's most remarkable
religious monuments were built; Borobudur, the biggest and most
magnificent monument to Mahayana Buddhism in the world; the enormous
Hindu temple complex of Prambanan, dedicated to Shiva and built
by the rulers of the Sanjaya Dynasty, and the ancient site of the
oldest Hindu temples in Java on the magnificent, ethereal heights
of the Dieng Plateau; all of these and more are testimony to the
ancient power and influence of the region. The first Islamic kingdom
in Java was born in 1511 in Demak, about 40 km from the Provincial
capital of Semarang on the North coast. One of the province's greatest
Islamic structures is, in fact, the Grand Mosque of Demak, which
is said to have been built in a single night by one of the nine
early leaders of Islam in Java. Surakarta, better known as Solo,
is the cradle of Javanese culture in the province. The courts of
Solo illustrate the noble value that the Javanese attach to grace
and refinement, with majestic ceremonies and royal festivals still
held with great pomp and circumstance. Although no longer the seats
of power they once were, the courts of Solo are still regarded as
the bearers of values which the Javanese have treasured for generations.
Descendants of the royal houses are regarded as leaders of Javanese
culture and traditions which uphold standards of sophistication
and bearing. Two major seaports are also to be noted, providing
national and international outlets for the province's agricultural
and industrial products; Tanjung Emas on the northern coast on the
Java Sea, and Cilacap, a natural ocean port in the Indian Ocean,
in the southern part of the province.
YOGYAKARTA
Located at the epicentre of a fertile rice fields that is overshadowed
to the north by fiery Mt. Merapi and bordered to the south by the
Indian Ocean, the refined old city of Yogyakarta or "Yogya"
is, with Solo, one of two traditional court centres remaining in
Java's prehistoric area. Yogya is one of the most productive traditional
farming areas on earth, with a rural population density that is
among the world's highest. The province's 3.2 million people live
in just 3,169 km2, this is above all remarkable since the great
majority of structures are one-story formations and most people
live in small village hamlets dotted about the countryside, making
a living from agriculture. Yogyakarta was in the 16th and 17th centuries
the seat of the mighty Javanese empire of Mataram, from which present
day Yogyakarta has inherited the best of traditions. The Yogyakarta
city came into being in 1755, after the division of Mataram into
the Sultanates of Yogyakarta and Surakarta. The Sultan's palace
is the hub of Yogya's traditional life and despite the advance of
modernity; it still emanates the spirit of refinement which has
been the trademark of Yogya's art for centuries. Proud of its Javanese
cultural heritage, it has attracted large numbers of painters, dancers
and writers, both Indonesian and foreign, and the arts flourish
here. Gamelan, classical and contemporary Javanese dances, the wayang
kulit leather puppet theatre and other expressions of traditional
art will keep the visitor spellbound. Local craftsmen excel in the
arts of batiks, silver and leather work. Yogya is now also a city
of students. The city is home to more than 55 academies and university-level
institutions, including Gajah Mada University, which was founded
during the revolution and is now one of the largest and most prestigious
universities in Indonesia. Yogya is truly unusual. Everyone who
visits this fertile volcanic land seems to come away favourably
impressed. Yogya is at the same time a traditional Javanese city
and stronghold of young and innovate thinking. Here the graceful
peacefulness of the Kraton lies just steps away from batik painters'
market where bizarre new creations are on display. Everything, from
the prehistoric to the modern, is accepted easily and naturally,
and is quickly assimilated into the rich and complex structure of
Yogyakarta's diverse heritage.
EAST JAVA
The province of East Java, extending from Mt. Luwu in the west all
the way to the Bali Straits, yields rich rewards to those willing
to put a bit of extra effort. This is Java's most varied province,
and it consists some of the island's most splendid scenery. From
sleepy ports to thundering volcanoes, from ancient temples to vast
wildlife reserves, East Java offers supreme chances to get off the
beaten tourist track. The Majapahit dynasty based in and around
East Java, began the foundations of an empire that was to dominate
the entire Indonesian archipelago, the Malay peninsula and part
of the Philippines, also establishing profitable trade relations
with China, Cambodia, Siam, Burma and Vietnam. As power in Central
Java declined in the 10th century, powerful kingdoms rose in East
Java to fill the power space. Between 1055 and 1222, the kingdom
of Kediri prospered and expanded. During the reign of King Airlangga
both East Java and Bali enjoyed a profitable trade with the nearby
islands, directly relating to a period of artistic development and
mastery. Parts of the Mahabarata epic were translated and re-interpreted
to conform closer to an East Javanese philosophy and view of life,
and it was from this era that East Java inherited much of its treasure
of temple art. Today the open air amphitheatre at Pandaan tells
some of the stories of this glorious past, with performances against
an impressive backdrop of distant volcanoes, capturing the spirit
of the province's culture and scenery. East Java's claim to fame
in modern history is its vanguard role in the struggle for independence
against colonial forces in 1945. Little of the Majapahit Empire's
former glory still stands in East Java, however, with the exception
of temple ruins and some archaeological discoveries. Nevertheless,
East Java has a variety of attractions, ranging from temple sites
to beautiful, unspoiled beaches, awesome volcanoes, picturesque
highland lakes, colourful marine gardens and fantastic wildlife
reserves. Magnificent mountain scenery includes the crater and legendary
sea of sand at Mount Bromo, the "sulphur mountain" of
Welirang and the rugged Ijen Plateau. The island of Madura, famous
for its bull races, is also part of the province and has its own
traditions and even a different language. The provincial capital,
Surabaya is second in size, population and commerce only to Jakarta.
It is also the most industrialized province in the nation with a
strong economy based on agriculture, fishery, oil industries, coffee,
mangoes and apples.